The most consistent way I've found to stop clothes moth damage without gassing myself is temperature. Heat for what I can wash or safely heat. Freezing for the delicate stuff. Then sealing.
Photo: Webbing under a collar showing typical moth larval activity and damage
What the evidence says
- Hot laundering. UC IPM recommends laundering for 20 to 30 minutes in water that is at least 120 F to kill all stages in washable items. If the fabric cannot handle hot water, dry cleaning is the safer route.
- Freezing. University of Kentucky lists two practical targets. Hold at 0 F for at least one week. Or, if you have a deep freezer that reaches minus 20 F, 72 hours is enough. Wrap or bag items before freezing to avoid condensation when you thaw. (Entomology at UKY)
- Adults vs larvae. Remember that adults do not eat your clothes. This is about eggs and larvae. If you do not treat the textiles, you have not addressed the problem.
My workflow on laundry day
- Sort by what the item can tolerate.
- Machine‑washable wool blends and cottons go to hot wash if the label allows it.
- True wool, cashmere, silk, and structured pieces go to dry cleaning or freezing.
- Hot wash group
- Wash 20 to 30 minutes at 120 F or above. Run the dryer to full dry afterwards. UC IPM says the wash itself is the key step, the dryer just adds insurance.
- Freeze group
- Brush gently to knock off surface debris so you do not bring lint into the freezer.
- Seal in bags, press out air, then put into a freezer at 0 F for one week. If you have access to minus 20 F, 72 hours is sufficient. Leave sealed while it acclimates back to room temperature to prevent condensation. (Entomology at UKY)
- Steam and spot heat
- For things I cannot wash and cannot send to the cleaner right away, I use a handheld steamer slowly on seams, cuffs, collars, and folds. Heat works, but be careful with delicate fibers. If you go this route, test an inconspicuous spot first.
- I have also used an iron through a press cloth on sturdier weaves. Keep motion steady. The goal is even heat without scorching. Use manufacturer care labels as the ceiling, not a dare.
- Seal and store
- After treatment I put items in airtight garment bags or lidded bins. I label with treatment method and date. Sealing stops re‑infestation and makes monitoring simpler.
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What I do not do anymore
- I skip at‑home dry cleaning cabinets. The models I researched were expensive and reviews suggested the steaming performance was inconsistent. If I am paying, I prefer a real dry cleaner or a freezer cycle.
- I avoid mothballs in an occupied studio. Paradichlorobenzene is toxic and is not a repellent. If you use these products at all, they belong in sealed containers only. That does not fit a tiny apartment I am living in.
If you try only two things Hot wash what can tolerate it. Freeze or dry clean the rest. Then seal. That single sequence moved me further than any amount of spraying ever did.